Access to parts is easy and most are fairly easy to remove/replace. The performance is great for a SUV as the acceleration pushes me into the seat and ghe engine as well as the exhaust system sound awesomely, better than a Jaguar XK8 00. I got it fixed for about a hundred bucks, just changed the fluid and both filters. I bought it for $500 and it's in perfect condition but the only problem was that the reverse gear was really weak. a very small budget.Īnd I've not even mentioned the stack of Recall notices that came with this from Mopar. But it's got all the signs of being built to a budget. I have NEVER beat this thing, or even off roaded it for that matter. Maybe I'm gullible, but I'll keep working with it 'till I get some of this figured out.īut if YOU aren't exactly "mechanically inclined," you may want to think twice. Paid $1500 for it 5 years ago, and probably rebought 3 times. The last time I'd gotten under it, and had someone turning the wheel, I shuddered to see nearly the entire front end sloppily shifting around! Yeah, it's got some miles, but holy cow! I've had plenty other 4x4's that never jangled like that. And yet everyone of them handled like a drunk pig on stilts! None were modified, and all were in reasonable shape. This is not the only one I've ever driven either, and they've all acted very similar. I'm always chasing a phantom vibration, from someplace new, trying to keep it in a straight line, (yes, it's been lined up,) and saving for the next $1000 + repair. In the 5 years I've had this, I've replaced 1 transmission, 2 front sets of calipers and rotors (because they flat out wouldn't let go!), ALL the front steering linkage, 1 alternator, 1 rusted out brake line, 2 rear u-joints, the "broken to pieces" driver seat base, and the weight that fell off the rear drive shaft. This Wave is of Bank 1 Injector voltage, before things go crazy.Whew. I have had about three different "Ah HA!" moments where I have found an issue and thought I found "THE" problem. And, I HAVE found both bad grounds AND voltage drops. This has all the indications of a bad ground/voltage drop. I, now, have control to Injector #5, but after a short warm up.POW! Die. It look like this HAS to be a bad computer. When doing voltage waveforms of the injectors, I noticed injector #5 was missing control. The coils and injectors are being grounded when they shouldn't be. The computer provides the grounds/control for the coils and injectors. I disconnected the ignition coils, one-by-one, and watched the current draw drop about 2 amps with each disconnected coil. I turned the key off killing the fuel pump. I restarted and soon enough, as expected.POW! Die. I wanted a way to leave the key on/fuse in and investigate the 40+ amp current draw without fuel spewing, so I removed the load from the ASD and applied it directly to battery positive, supplying power to the coils and injectors with key on or off. Coils hot to touch.fuel spewing out of throttle-body. Now, I restarted and, again, Backfire and Die. With a thermal imager, I found and repaired a voltage drop at splice (S128). When the backfire occurred, the amperage shot up to 42 amps (on a 30 amp fuse) and the wire became very warm. After clearing the flood, I put an amp clamp around the ASD relay LOAD circuit and restarted. He said a backfire destroyed it.) I pulled Fuse 6 and it stopped. Suddenly, fuel started spewing out of the throttle body. All the while, the EVAP purge solenoid and injectors were clicking. It was not blown, but I could see the solder points, now, looked dull-grey and not smooth. I look at the fuse, which used to have nice, shiny solder points. Fuse 6, the 30 amp fuse for the ASD relay was blown. But, before I could get the scanner connected, it backfired and died. When it was first brought in (on a truck), it drove into the shop without problem. This is my policy and have not, yet, had to let one go unfixed/unsolved.īut, this thing has been kicking my butt, for days. I told him that if I couldn't fix it, I wouldn't charge anything. He said that he heard I was the guy that could fix it. He gave me a list: New Idle Air Control, ECT sensor, new "computer screws", Coolant flush, Tranny service, Spark plugs, Ignition Coils, Starter, Battery, CKP sensor, water pump, thermostat, and more. He said that after it dies, the gauges "go crazy", there is a lot of "clicking" under the hood, and fuel sprays out of the air intake. A customer came in complaining of a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 that will run for a few minutes without issue, but once warm, it will backfire and die. Life seems to have a way of humbling me, when I get too cocky.
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